Nights in the Sahara

When thinking of the Sahara, pictures of sand dunes, sharp sun rays and heat flood the mind. Some are fully aware that heat quickly evaporates from the dunes and nights cool rapidly. My first experience in the Sahara ruined my digital camera when the powder sand restricted the moving parts. I later learnt to protect my electronic equipment by covering them with effective plastic zip-lock bags. Mounted high on a 'dromedaire' or single humped camel, me and my family ventured into the vast Sahara snapping photos every other minute. The experience was great, but I needed more, so I arranged a night in the Sahara with a few friends.

Mounting grumbling camels, shrieks of surprise and delight accompanied uneven jostling as our 4-legged transport lurched to cushioned feet from awkward kneeling positions. Bedouin guides can speak camel. My funny friends mimicked camel tongue to their surprise. Camel Tongue is a gifted ringing r-roll with a middle-high note for effect. Never try it while mounting your camel... Contact me for specifics.

90 minutes later, we arrived at our destination that looked no different than the rest of the Sahara. A dune expanse of various sizes surrounded us with imposing, audible silence. My mobile phone was silent too since modern cell-phone range did not make it 90 minutes into the Sahara yet. Once we climbed to the highest sand dune, we could see the faint silhouette of a water tower in the distance. Simon and Garfunkel's 'Sound of Silence' blew through my mind as we eyed the expanse and marvelled at how small we felt. Our camels, with tied front legs hopped away from their demanding masters in search of feigned freedom and the rare juicy bush of green.


The sun settled bright orange, yellow and red over the dunes. Cameras were out again and 100s of pictures snapped. As darkness fell a cooler very light breeze lifted the dust slightly. Racing like children down the dunes, we fell, rolled and choked with laughter that echoed into the distance. Such abandonment, such freedom, we were in a playground without fences, fear or concern of the worlds we come from.

Returning to our campsite, a genuine Bedouin tent was erected and a friendly inviting fire alive with flying embers welcomed us. Our Bedouin guides waved at me (I can speak some Arabic) to announce that dinner cooked over the open fire would be served within 10 minutes. Settling into our Bedouin tent was quick and easy.  Then before us was a table spread in the desert. The soup, couscous and bread tasted like heaven. A light fruit dessert followed while our guides entertained with traditional music. I had dance, just had to dance. The soft silky Sahara sand makes dancing harder but so much more fun. My friends joined like no one was watching as our music and laughter disturbed the silence. Zillions of stars of the clear black night made us wonder how huge the universe really is and how privileged we are to enjoy the work of the Creator.

Morning came all too soon. All of us felt the camel ride of the day before and wondered if walking was possible after the return trip.

The Berbers of Tunisia

Berbers, The First People of North Africa

There have been many people from all over the world coming to Tunisia since it was first discovered all those years ago. However, the very first people to enter the country were the Berbers.

Some evidence tells us that they were definitely present in some parts of Tunisia, but they were especially more prominent in certain areas. Carthage was the place where this clan mostly settled. Writings that were found there, tell us more about their culture, religion and society.
The Berbers can be found all over North Africa and make up most of the population. This is a massive race, where 50 million of them can be found in Egypt alone. There are also 4 million found in Europe, so you can see that it is not a small sector of the population.

 

You can do the Berber Track Tour for 3 days starting and ending on the island of Djerba. Here you visit the different villages, learn of their culture and history, visit their troglodyte homes for a traditional cup of mint tea with home baked bread.

The Berber community was spread throughout Tunisia at one point, which was known to be the leading region where they could be found, during the Punic era. They stayed here during the Roman period as well as the early parts of the Islamic times. Evidence from burial sites and a variety of artefacts as well as many writings tells us about their culture as well as their social organization. Some of this culture can be seen in the people all over Tunisia today, which are displayed in an extremely positive light.
Although you don’t see many true Berbers in the country these days, as more families have started to raise their children, using Arab traditions, there are still some traditional clans in small villages. The Berbers are known to be a close community, with the women marrying inside the race.

Berbers from other countries, will normally end up settling with Berbers in the smaller villages dotted around Tunisia. Traditional Berber villages are found the in south of Tunisia from Guellala on the island of Djerba to Tozeur close to the border of Algeria. The Berber language is still used in many homes, but Tunisian Arabic is spoken in public. Berber script is different from Arabic but consistent throughout the 5 major Berber divisions.

Whether the Berber race will survive in Tunisia is debatable. As some Berbers have claimed, the language does not help kids get ahead in the world. It does not help you put bread on the table either. However, one can always remember and be proud of your heritage and the fact that it was the Berbers that first stepped onto the land that has been through so much development and transformation for the better.

Tunisian Tagine & Cultural Travel

My last post included the
surprise of how different Tunisian Tagine (Tajine طاجين ) is from the 'real' thing in Morocco. The name is the problem, I conclude and would like to see an innovative name for the delicious meal that conjure up the correct mental images. The earthenware pot called tagine is the origin of the name. In Morocco the same pot yields a different result which is more known than its flat Tunisian name-sake. Perhaps it should be called Tunisian Pizza? no. What about Tunisian Savoury Slice?. Oh that a name project appropriate emotion and mental picture. Savoury slice will do in my estimation.

One of the things that I love to do with special cultural visitors is to get them into the homes of the locals. The program is set in a traditional home or as it called here a houch (hoosh) with an enclosed courtyard and low furniture. After greeting the hosts a language lesson is presented. Nothing deep, just the normal greetings and some lessons in Tunisian etiquette. Armed with pen, notebook and a thousand 'whats?, say that again!', the tourist students are serious at best. To utter the gutturals release laughter instead. Mentally tired (or challenged) and bemused the guests ready themselves for a meal while seated on flat mattresses. All sorts of food come out in waves with our local guest explaining origin and use of each dish. When in cross-legged position for longer than normal some feel that they could never get up in a dignified manner, but then the 'old-school' photo albums come out to boast weddings, children and deceased parents.

Emerging from the cultural setting, my guest inevitably recount the 3 hours as the highlight of their Tour to Tunisia.

 

Night 1 in Tunis

Common Medina Paths
 

It was a cold, dank day when I stepped off the plane at the Tunis/Carthage airport in March 2007. The newness of this exotic destination gripped our enthusiasm, defying the ache for warmth and a drink of the familiar. The kind taxi driver dropped us at the Carlton hotel on the main central avenue of Tunis in no time. With hotel forms duly completed and signed we stumbled into our 3star bedroom on the 2nd floor above avenue Bourguiba with a view of the Africa Hotel and a bustling double lane lined with pedestrians, cars, cafes, tables and trees. The icy wind that came off the south of Europe did not deter life on the high street one bit.

A quick shower, clean clothes, a close shave and within 30 minutes our party of 4 met in the hotel lounge with a look of readiness to try Mediterranean cuisine. Having just come from Morocco, my mind told me to sample Tunisian Tajine. My empty stomach forced pictures of cooked dried fruit with delicious meat and vegetables into my mind. My taste buds responded in eager expectation while interesting people walked up and down the narrow cobbled stone alleys. When the waiter of the old Tunis Medina restaurant plonked the dish on our table, 8 eyes shot him a surprise. 'Where is the tajine?' I said with raised eyebrows, up-turned palms and with accented French. 'Sa c'est tajine monsieur... c'est tajine Tunisien', the bemused waiter said with a gentle smile. Turning to my company, I said, this looks like regular old keesh. We ate with fond memories of Morocco, drinking in the amazing ambiance of modern dress in a historical setting.

Late that night I slipped into a deep sleep wondering what the next day would bring. How will a Tour Operator make a success, where to base... more comfortable hotels.... real tajine...

5 Reasons to come to Tunisia

There must be many good reasons why thousands flock to Tunisia every year. Tunisia Tours include much more but here are five reasons, why Tunisia stands out as a perfect choice.

Reason #1
Not all of us can afford the luxury, especially in this day and age where we really have to watch our budget. However, Tunisia stands out as one of the more affordable locations out there, allowing one to simply relax on the beach or get involved in a little more activity. There is plenty of accommodation available, which will be able to suit just about anyone, so whether you are deciding to come out for your honeymoon or you simply need an inexpensive spot for the family, you will definitely find something.

Reason #2

Taking the entire family on holiday is not always easy. The kids will be happy going to Disney World, but this is not suitable for everyone. However, Tunisia allows adults to unwind on the beach, whilst letting the kids do their own thing. It is perfect for golf or even a touch of scuba diving. Tunisia rates as one of the safest destinations in Africa especially for families.

Reason #3

You may even want to break away from all the adventure seekers and do some exploring. The people of this land are experts in the making of fine handcrafts, using basic materials like ceramics, wool, copper and leather. Tunisian carpets are highly sought after items for the home and this is a great way of finding something spectacular to bring back with you at a price which you won’t find anywhere else.

Reason #4

There are many fantastic festivals all over the country, giving you the chance to see some of the culture. There are a number of other festivals during the year, which call for great celebrations. This adds to the whole experience, more than just another holiday. You may even want to think of finding your way down this part of the world for the International film festival, which takes place in October.

Reason #5

You simply can’t leave a place like this without experiencing some of the culture. This is not like going to a museum where your kids are going to start wondering when they will be going home. There are fantastic archaeological sites, like the city of Carthage, which dates back to 814 BC. The Byzantine architecture is still a strong feature, before it was turned into an Islamic nation. Then there is Kairouan the fourth most holy city in the world. If you head off to Dougga, you will see how the Roman theatre has still been preserved where classical plays were performed on a regular basis.

 Contact me for further information

 

A day in Tunis

Doing everything you can in a wonderful city like Tunis in one day is not all that possible, but you can at least fit in some of the most essential items on the agenda. It all depends on what is important to you. Some people may find that a cruise on the Mediterranean is a must and others would prefer to skip that and rather soak up some of the history in one of the smaller villages.

A lot of people think of this country as being placed right in the middle of the Sahara, and whilst that is partly true, you will also have a chance to sample the beautiful Mediterranean. One of the ways to do this is with a cruise. Of course, this will take up a chunk of your day, so just keep that in mind. You can have a snack at one of the villages or restaurants overlooking the spectacular coast and soak in some of the atmosphere.

A View from Sidi Bou Said near Tunis

Getting around the area by car is your best bet if you don’t have all that much time. There are many villages that you can explore, but you have to find out what it is you are after. www.experienceintunisia.com can help. Some of these will attract shoppers and others are more historical. Sidi Bou Said is a beautiful village worth visiting and it is close to the remains of a Roman aqueduct system. You may be reminded of Greece when you visit this village, with its blue shutters contrasting with the whitewashed houses.

The Tunis Medina is the old walled city and it is definitely worth exploring. Even if you are not a born shopper, you will appreciate the atmosphere and the experience of a souk (or souq), which is an enclosed shopping area that is composed of many different shops. You may want to pick something up like a handmade rug or Tunisian leather bag, which you will struggle to find at home for the kind of price they are selling it for.

The Bardo National Museum holds the largest collection of Roman mosaics in the world. It is interesting to note the change in style as you go through the ages. At some point in time, pagan gods and symbols were not allowed to be included in the work.

Tours in Tunisia mostly start in Tunis for a day or two, but you really need 8 to 10 days to explore the best of Tunisia.

Tunisia Travel Tips

I came to this country desperate to experience. My desire still is to know so much that I can be a reliable help to others.
I now live in Djerba, Tunisia but my first and obvious task after arriving was to know how to travel around in this country. I have tried them all so here goes:

For the Budget Traveler, Public transport holds the key. I remember how I armed myself with walking shoes, backpack, travel jacket, money belt and hat. In and out of busses, louages and trains I dragged my backpack and my partner, desperate to get to my next destination or to a place of rest. After jossling through crowds with tired feet and painful back, I had a better appreciation for the budget traveler. I felt limited in many ways and wished that I could see more, but for the burden on my back. After several experiences, I can provide you with a fairly accurate budget for traveling in Tunisia by public transport. Contact me at AlanTS@generalmail.net

The next thing that I tried was to rent a car. With excitement we piled into our Renault Clio, luggage loaded, maps out, water bottles filledl and we were off. Me the driver had to be obedient to the navigator. There were times when the navigator instructed left and not right. Patiently I turned back to where we lost our way with renewed hope and a wry smile (often with a cheeky comment too). We visited many places, stopped anywhere we wanted, took many pictures of the most obscure objects and made a few new friends. Fuel prices are reasonable in this country and we figured that renting a car is value for money. The down side is that I had to search long and hard for the right company with reliable vehicles at the right price. I also did not want to be ripped off. Now I know where to go what the prices of rentals ought to be. Talk to me for free advice and some more tips that can keep you out of the psychiatric ward after your journey and still friends with your travel companions. AlanTS@generalmail.net

One month later, I traveled in real comfort. A local travel company sold me a package tour of the Sahara. All 5 of us (my whole family), had a trouble free journey. The driver was careful, talked to the inquisitive police officer, protected our interest and made certain that we were not ripped off at restaurants and touristic sites. I did not have a care in world about getting lost and looking over to my wife, she was as content as I like her. This journey was more expensive than the other option, but gave me the most value.

You might connect with me to make all your arrangements or you might just want my free advice that I willingly part with. Either way, WELCOME.

Bon Voyage
Alan (AlanTS@generalmail.net)